London: The Tower! Part 2

June 12, 2013: The Tower of London: Part 2

This was THE nicest Beefeater! We were told to talk to him about anyone who had been in the tower. Tradition says that one of our ancestors, John Laythrop had been held here for a time, (for preaching reformation) then released and he quickly made his way to America. We didn't find his name in this nice man's roster, so I will need to do a little more research to verify it. But we had such a nice chat with him. He had worked in Ogden, Utah for a time!! (I can't remember the company he said, I kind of want to say Pampers, because it had something to do with Diapers). He was so great.

This is an OLD wall. It forms part of the west side of the original bailey. It was built between 1221 and 1238 during the reign of Henry III, to replace earlier defences constructed by William the Conqueror. WHAT???!!!! Oh, just a little renovation. That's all.

The far end of the complex is constructed of an old Medieval Palace! It was build by Edward I (1272-1307) and his father Henry III (1216-1272). Seriously cool.

I am obsessed with the amazing doors here! I will need to make a collage or two of just neat doors. But this one, was too cool, going up the tower (with, of course, yet another spiral staircase!)

Just a neat view from inside the tower looking out:

A bedroom in the Palace. Look at the amazing fireplace. And the beds were interesting. The oftentimes used mattresses of straw on top of a mattress (like our boxspring) of down and feathers. I wonder how long it took them to figure out needed to switch that around! The curtains around the bed helped keep the warmth in, and probably some bugs. Notice the square thing on the table...

Its a Nine Men's Morris gameboard! I teach about this game in my class, when we talk about Shakespeare! It is one of the oldest games around, they have found boards etched into the walls of Egyptian Tombs (apparently the workers on break?) and in the decks of Viking ships. Joseph made a bunch of boards for our Shakespeare Festival, and kids became addicted to playing it. It is a great game for the mind, and for strategy. How cool to see in an early period dwelling!

Just another neat door exiting the room.

A Word About the Staircase:

When I was a little girl, I went through a "Princess Phase" (for about 10 years, if truth be told!) When I was really little, my mom would make me crowns out of paper. But not the kind like from Burger King, NO! I needed the Cone-kind, like the Maid Marion would have worn, with a scarf flowing out of the top point. That was always the hardest part, to get the scarf to stay in, and not bend the paper all up. Unfortunately we were never super successful with that part, but I would wear my little cone-crowns around once in a while, and dream about going up and down spiral staircases. As I grew up, I always thought it would be cool to have one in my house. I have to say, I am not sure I am still of that mind. I have gone up and down SO many, (more pictures will come), that I think I finally have had my fill. Yes, they are SUPER space-efficient, and they are romantic to ascend (and even descend) as long as you aren't claustrophobic. But I will tell you, going down these things makes you dizzy! We laughed as I would grip the narrow iron rails (sometimes repaired with duck tape!) And tried to keep one foot moving in front of another, my head spinning! The faster you go down, the more dizzy you get. Not to mention the fact that there are probably more steps than a regular staircase, so you get a serious work out! I think I will just stick to my cone-crown/hats for a while. :-)

The Throne Room! It is interesting to have such a simple room, for the most part. They are stone and wood. Really not much carving or architectural elements (with the exception of a neat fireplace or door here and there) and then this ornate throne, (or other furniture).

         Yep.

Just look at the hinges on that door! (yep...leading up another spiral staircase...just in case you care.) :-)

Crossing a walkway to another tower and part of the Medieval Castle.

Joseph is getting the "point!"

But seriously, they had these cool little sections where you could see how they defended the tower, or living quarters. At one point, there were even hidden speakers with armor and swords clanking, and other war sounds on the outside wall. It was fun to try to understand and imagine what it would have felt like to live here so long ago and be attacked.

So this was kind of interesting, and the first of a few formal/official goings-on that we stumbled upon during out travels. When we exited the Palace (a TRAVEL TIP here: if you do not want to walk half the perimeter of the Tower of London complex, OR you need to go to the bathroom...EXIT at your first option! Once you are in the maze, you cannot get out unless you continue on through the whole duration. It was fine, but we had not planned on it, and there are quite a few spiral staircases up and then down...so GET OUT WHILE YOU CAN!) Anyway, once we finally came out, we were over by the Crown Jewels again. Right next to that building is the Regiment of Fusiliers and the London Headquarters.

The Fusiliers were an infantry regiment started around 1685 out of 2 companies of the Tower of London Guard. Anyway, the square was kind of blocked off with all these official black cars and guards standing around. We weren't blocked off or anything, so just walked to get out, but there was obviously something official going on, and people were watching with poised cameras. I took a few pictures when they started exiting. No idea what is going on, but threw it in here for fun. And now you have heard the word Fusilier! :-)

Joseph and Merinda looking at the "Byward Postern." This area is the gateway that connects the Tower to the Thames waterfront on the wharf. It was a private entrance where important people and goods were brought into the Tower. Coins and bullion would also have been brought through here and into the Mint, which was located across the street. I don't have pictures of the Mint, but again, this was so much more than just a tower that held criminals. This was also the royal Mint of the currency of England from 1279, until it began to move its operations in 1968!

This part was built during the reign of King Edward III, who ruled between 1327 and 1377.

Another reason I think it is significant though, is that, as stated before, this is the entrance the Royals would have taken. Travel by land/road was difficult and dangerous. The roads were uncomfortable by horse or carriage, and dangerous with bandits and robbers. So the Royals preferred to travel by royal barge on the Thames. MUCH more smooth and comfortable. This is where they would have entered. 

Our guide mentioned that this is where Anne Boleyn would have first walked through once she had become Queen and entered the Tower for the first time. It would have been a grand affair, as she was learning about her new palaces and the places she had. But this is also where she would have walked through the last time, as she entered the Tower to become its most famous prisoner. Once she walked through this door for the last time, she never left, as she was beheaded just across the square.


Oh, just a dragon in the middle of the sidewalk.

We really loved the Tower of London. But felt like to complete the experience, the respectful thing to do was to go across the street. There is a little memorial park there, that remembers the public beheadings and hangings. Remember, not that many were actually killed on the grounds of the Tower. But many of the prisoners there were brought to this place for their death. Some were famous, some were not. We just felt we needed to stop by out of respect.

Then we went on to St. Martin's int he Fields. I listen to their orchestra all the time on Classical 89 (KBYU) and so it was super fun for me to go. There was an amazing candlelight Mozart concert that we could have gone to, but it was just a little bit out of budget, so I pretend we went! :-)  What we DID do though, was go in the crypt for a fun activity!

To enter the crypt, you find this strange spire, just sticking right out of the ground. The only thing inside is an elevator. And it only goes down.

I had never seen a NEGATIVE number on an elevator before. Funky.

Once in the crypt, you can do a Brass Rubbing, like they did in the old days! It is super cool, and super inexpensive. They start at 4.50 GBP, and I thought they were going to be little dinky things, but they weren't, they were quite big. So what are Brass Rubbings exactly? According to Wikipedia, 

Brass Rubbing was originally a largely British enthusiasm for reproducing onto paper monumental brasses – commemorative brass plaques found in churches, usually originally on the floor, from between the 13th and 16th centuries.

In the 1970's they stopped using the original Brass plaques because they were literally being worn down and so Brass Rubbing centers made replicas. All the designs are still authentic and amazing, but not always the original size, so that they are manageable for the "artist."

They were all so beautiful it was really hard to choose what to do. In the end, Joseph chose St. George and The Dragon. And I chose a Celtic Cross, in honor of my ancestry. There is actually quite a bit of technique, and frankly muscle, because you have to have even repetition of movement, so in a nutshell, your arm gets tired. You rub the wax on its flattish end (not side, or corners) in one direction, trying to be as even in your strokes as possible. It was relaxing and fun, like coloring for grownups! Some of them are done in more than one color...I should have taken a picture of the finished products, because Joseph and Merinda did multiple colors. I just loved the gold for mine. I will post a finished picture later, when we get home.

The nice ladies get you all set up, once you choose your image, and then roll it in a tube for you when you are finished. 

TRAVEL TIP: If you purchase the London Pass, you get a FREE rubbing! (up to 4.50) If you want to go with a bigger one, you just pay the difference. The huge ones were stunning, and only a few dollars/pounds more. I just wasn't sure what to do with a bigger one, and it would have taken us longer than we actually had. But if I ever get to go back, I might just need to do one! I would highly recommend this to anyone who goes to London. It is such a great, meaningful souvenir, and a great activity for a rainy London day, or when you just need a good, still-productive, break from all the walking. Another good day in London.